Sunday, 1 September 2013

Breaking the Silence

I'm not a huge fan of blurting out highly personal information in "social media" circles. But I do see the benefit of harnessing the potential that social media has for making a positive difference in people's lives. In this case, I need social media to turn some huge negatives into some positives not only for me, but also my family.

My silence of 8 months started pretty innocuously. Actually, it started pretty joyously! I had just started a new job and moved into my own, awesome flat in Auckland's North Shore suburb of Birkenhead. A view of Waitemata Harbour and the SkyTower and the twinkling lights of the Big Little City. Or is it the Little Big City? 45 minutes or so from wicked surfbreaks on either coast, and handy access to "rocking" neighbourhoods like Ponsnoreby [zzzz] and only 18 minutes door to door from work. Not too shabby!

I had just celebrated my birthday-slash-housewarming when, on the other side of the world, my family was receiving the horrific and devastating news that my mother had been diagnosed with metastatic cancer. I received the phone call one day at work. It was every immigrant's nightmare, really. 

For immigrants back in the day, there were no options. People died while you basked in your colonial glory, only to receive the news six months later by waterlogged letter, or from some fresh-off-the-boat shouting yesteryear's news over a cup of billy tea.

But this is 2013. A year to the day that I arrived in New Zealand, I was on a plane to Canada to be with my Mum. And lucky too, as my Mum passed away 16 short days after my arrival home. 

Those were precious days and many lifetimes were lived in that short time. 

I didn't make any public announcement of what was happening to my family. It was so out-of-the-blue, so incomprehensible, and, I felt, so private, that it could not be shared. I have been silent since then because life has been so precarious, so hard-won, and I just didn't have the heart. Grief is an unruly troll that comes out of his box whenever he damn pleases ... and doesn't make for great copy, even from New Zealand. Until you start putting him in his place. 

It's less than 6 months since my Mum died. We have barely begun to grieve her sudden, early and tragic death. I have just received another phone call. My Dad has been diagnosed with metastatic cancer, and the prognosis is not good.

It's Springtime in New Zealand, and Cancer Society Daffodil Day.
But this time, it's different. This time, I'm making the news public. This time, I'm letting everyone in. Because I need the support. My family needs the support. We can't go it alone. I can't repeat fifty times what is happening. I need to tell you, and then to let go and let you help me and my family in whatever way you can. Whether it's a kind word, or spreading the word, a cardboard box for my packing, a meal, a laugh, or a donation to the Cancer Society. All of that is compassion that is gratefully received by me and my family.

That is, perhaps, the beauty of the social. The beauty of having circles. The beauty of being paid attention to. It's not just for hits of endorphins or exercising the stuttering mind. It is communication. It is the purpose of media. We are nothing if not social beings, as they say. On some level, we are also all family.

So let our hope, prayers, wishes, and beliefs come through this and every other channel available for communication and support. And let no one say that to hope, pray, wish, or believe is the easy way out ... because I know from experience it is the hard way. But it is the only way worth going, and best done in numbers.

We are going to hope, pray, wish and believe. 

Soon I will be on a plane back to Canada, and there will be much life yet for all of us to live, full of mystery and full of joy and pain. And how much the better knowing it will be done with maximum support, and the maximum power of our wondrous and amazing times. 



Wednesday, 26 December 2012

KINIPELA'S 2012 WRAP-UP! Part 1


2012 WRAP-UP: JANUARY to APRIL (for May and June, see separate entries! The next 6 months to follow!)

Another Christmas has come and gone. This time it was a little bit different. I have just experienced my first Kiwi Christmas. My intrepid long-lost Kiwi cousin L and her partner W hosted the mother of all ultra-blended family Christmases. I mean, I haven’t seen that many sets of relations since my best friend’s wedding when, during the reception line, I began to question reality after meeting the sixth set of grandparents on her mother’s side! It could have been absolute chaos were it not for Kiwi ingenuity and heaps of alcohol … sorry I was talking about the contents of the WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE TRIFLE. Simply because the only Madeira I could find was Blandy’s Duke of Clarence Rich Madeira, which is good. But because I’m in New Zealand, I had to buy it for $50. Had I bought it online, rather than in a wineshop in West Lynn, it would have cost me $40. Were I simply to move back to Canada, it would cost me like, $20. Bah humbug. Northern hemispheric Christmas perfectionism and gluttony have their price of distinction, yo!

Kinipela models the trifle triumph!
Christmas trifle ... sponsored by Blandy's Duke of Clarence Rich Madeira.
Anyway, it was a fun day, and it was wonderful to be a part of it. One of the highlights was when my dad was able to meet, via Skype, his long-lost Kiwi relations who have been putting up with me for all this time … voluntarily. Skype featured in my Christmas morning celebrations and I was able to open up wrapped presents sent by my folks from Canada … with them live! It made the distance seem a little less, and gave them an opportunity to check out Xmas a day -- and a few seasons -- ahead of schedule.
Not so much a dewey, glowing complexion as
a combination of  the meat-sweats and high humidity.
Without further ado, here's my 2012 WRAP-UP by month. Read at your leisure and hopefully your pleasure. Be aware that JR Kinipela does not necessarily endorse nor agree with anything or everything that is here said. Good luck! MERRY CHRISTMAS and HAPPY NEW YEAR 2013!
AROHA, KINIPELA ... across the miles!
JANUARY 2012
Mostly spent panicking about not having finished my book yet and the imminent departure to NZ. Lots of time fossicking in storage units chucking all remnants of my former life. Not enough snow to make winter worth it. Stressed to the max. Bring on NZ!

FEBRUARY 2012
Arrived in NZ on 21st.  A more than 20 degree jump in temperature and radical change of season gives me and the other NZ flight 007 girls from the MidWest USA the total sweats. A group of us can be found in the toilets at the Auckland airport ransacking our bags for the quick change into summer. I settle in with L and W at Muriwai. Buy my first car, a $3000 NZD former luxury vehicle known as the 2002 Toyota Camry “Allie Q 22”.
My TradeMe ad: "Once was luxury, now doubles as chickenfeed".
The deal is made on the main street in Onehunga. I hand over a plastic bag filled with cash to the dealer. The dealer hands me the keys. I feel weird. He’s wearing white pointy shoes, and complaining about multiculturalism and how it’s ruining New Zealand.


MARCH 2012
I now have my own surfboard, a 6’4” fish by Oxbow. The middle fin rips off on the maiden voyage. Gets fixed by a guy whom I later discover was on the run from the tax man or was it the bailiff and is known all up and down the North Island as a loose cannon coke-head. I choose to ignore such rumours. I finish my book. The excitement lasted about 10 minutes. It was more or less that feeling of having done the crime, and consequently done the time. I resolve to never talk about anything medieval ever again. I’m over it. I take off on a 6 week surf trip around Northland, now that the worst summer ever has moved towards a decent autumn, and the flooding has subsided. I become acquainted with the phenomenon of “nek minnit”, and it provides hours of idle hilarity, especially when I make wrong turns and “nek minnit”, end up in some random town headed in the same direction from which I have just come.

APRIL

Oh the joy of no footnotes. No more academics and their shitty social skills and worse insecurities … and terrible managerial philosophies. Oh the joy of surfing and reading schlocky novels! Oh the wine! Oh freedom! Oh Whittaker’s chocolate! Oh the white sand beaches! And secret late-night falling into the abyss of panic over what I will do for the REST OF MY LIFE. Oh. My. God. Dwindling savings. Visions of living in a cardboard box stealing peanut butter and cans of tuna from the grocery store. Decide it’s not worth worrying about. I'm in New Zealand. Screw it. Fate will find me. 

I discover the Hokianga. Now that is magnificence. I stumble across a place called Kohukohu, which means “misty misty”. And oh, it was. One morning I woke up and you could not see more than an inch in front of your nose. Yet the ferry continued to ply the harbour between Rawene and Kohukohu.

Play Misty for me ...
Ooh! The glare!

The ferry to Kohukohu is somewhere in the fog ...
 Here is an excerpt from my personal diary from this month:

“Took the ferry from Rawene to Kohukohu on spur of the moment. Found out about a mythical beach on the other side. Figured I’d walk there. Got talking to the deck hand, recognized his Welsh accent, and then we were away chatting, and I was invited up to the bridge where I met L, a gigantic Maori skipper who was fun and jolly and laughed like Santa Claus. From there absolutely stunning views of Hokianga harbour and all was fun and stories.
          P – I knew his name by then and had been invited round to his for a drink later, arranged for me to get a lift for the 4 kms into Kohukohu, this upon evaporation of the mythical beachwalk plan. (What beach?) I was recommended a café and an art gallery, and my suspicious side began to wonder whether I was part of an elaborately predictable tourist scam, like an Irish bus tour. Well we’re not in Auckland any more, and so travelling to KK with M – big, pocked, bear of a man with exceedingly long, strong fingernails and likely stifling in his black suit – who explained his need to go into Rawene for diesel due to an upcoming trip to the dread AKL. The dodgy gas metre … and the suit? A tangi (Maori funeral) of a mate who dropped dead rather suddenly. He was not actually a lawyer, har har har! Anyhow, M parked the ute at the KK Tavern, said “welcome” to me, and disappeared into its great, darkened hull.

The stunning view from my cabin in Rawene.
          At the café made fatal error of a flat white (it wasn’t even very good) and eavesdropped. What I got was real, small-town reality: the girl who “comes home” for the tangi and she may have escaped but she is made of the Hokianga and the Hokianga is made of her. Auckland fashions (such as they are) but a gorgeous, voluptuous face and she will soon be beaming at aunties and uncles down the road at the marae. The whole region, it seemed, was camped out on either side of the road, a motley collection of NZ cars and utes, a long line to enter into the hall beside the marae’s main building.
          I ambled then into the art gallery. I had the distinct feeling, in my brief walkabout, of an eerie sense of desertion, and was hyper-aware of my own total disorientation, how ridiculous I must have looked in my Lululemon fitness get-up and Asics running shoes (I didn’t know what to wear for the unpredictable weather, luon seemed the ticket) and how I really just felt aware of myself, as though a huge overstated and unnecessary finger were pointing down accusatorily from the sky marking out most emphatically: STRANGER. MISFIT. CLUELESS.
A view of the Hokianga Harbour near Opononi.
          Stepping into the art gallery was like regaining my equilibrium, after standing on a pier flanked by a stone archway recalling all who died from Hokiana in the World Wars (including Vietnam). There I stood, and as a small outboard fishing boat made its way underneath and I shared a smile with the lone fisherman, I realised he and I were communicating from separate universes. He may as well have been the man in the moon in oilskins and a t-shirt, with outsized hands built-to-purpose for catching, gutting and carving. And me with my mild eczema brought on by worry in front of a flickering computer. How absurd. Two feelings: humility and an extreme distaste for vegans in that moment.
          Having somehow regained the earth I looked in at the gallery. It was like stepping back into my own world: packaged for consumption, abstracted, narrative, conclusive. Outside was chaos. Inside was meaning for my PhD.
          Suddenly swept up in a hub of conversation. Met the gallery volunteer H, who told me about himself and the area, he being Maori, and we talked about everything under the sun. He seemed to connect with my “Celtic Studies” schtick, and from this little base was formed a whole series of connections, as in came the owner of the gallery, JW, and Marg Morrow, the photographer whose work I had been admiring. [… skip a few steps in the narrative …] It was all coming fast and furious. After connections made and all these social triumphs I decided it was time to skip town while under the influence of such joy. I did not want to “outstay”. Anyhow, the Lululemon came in handy as I ended up running the last km to the ferry as it was there and I had the panic of not missing it.
The Hokianga Heads, near Opononi.
          A new crew was on duty. A Belgian, D, with only the slightest Flemish accent, and T the Skipper, and a brute of a fisherman with forearms like Popeye after spinach but a gentle soul. With this crew I caught sight of the resident dolphin. And so for two bucks, I saw what people spend hundreds to do in the Bay of Islands, all in the humble majesty of the Hokianga.
          D and T had a few laughs at the expense of the travellers aboard, and who could blame them? The J.A.F.A.s were in full representation (Just Another Fucking Aucklander). And one of them just had to be sure:
          JAFA Lady: ‘Is this the ferry to Rawene?’
          One can see the dock at Rawene from Kohukohu.
          There are no other docks in sight. Anywhere.
          D shouts to T: ‘Hey, mate, is this the ferry to Rawene?’
          T: ‘Oh I dunno, I think so!’
          Brute of a Fisherman: ‘What time does the two o’clock ferry leave?’
JAFA Man gets out of mini-van. ‘Seriously, I don’t know these people. Anyway, she’s a lawyer’.
In NZ as elsewhere, the lawyer has a bad name. Such is their reputation in New Zealand that a grasping, clutching, leeching sub-tropical rainforest vine that takes over everything in sight is called the bush lawyer.”
          
My commentary for this month starts to get a little critical. I am actively trying to resist Auckland in all its forms, because, basically, nobody outside of Auckland genuinely likes Auckland. And trust me, the rest of the country – outside of Auckland but yet including Auckland – is falling apart at the seams. Reeling from the history I’d been picking up in my Northland travels, and myown observations thus far, I had this to say in my personal diary:

          “The New Zealand response to the introduction of the tractor was to hitch the cart of selfish individualism to the drug of increased horsepower. The tractor, thus, ran amok. Rails or ‘tramways’ were soon abandoned and forestry gave way to farmland and stations. The effects of the drunkenness brought on by the extension of individual fortunes by the ‘CAT’ are bringing about New Zealand’s rapid demise. Addicted to cars and impossible – not to say wholly impassable – roads, the New Zealander is quite happy to encase himself in flimsy steel and race around his country drinking lattes, with all roads leading to Auckland. The countryside is left to mind itself, Northland is left to rot or go up in smoke, and the entitled yet quickly subsiding white, middle-class, ‘urban’ Kiwi is scrambling to claim his own little patch of Godzone within a 1.5 hour drive of Auckland. The government has virtually cancelled and dismantled all logical infrastructure for the transport of goods and people and the proper management of North Island territory by quashing rail and ports (the natural medium of communication for Auckland being the Hauraki Gulf). What the settlers began in the 19th century has been taken apart bolt by bolt, until New Zealanders have been reduced to toy trucks carrying pitifully small loads along inadequate roads with all the efficiency of a third-world postal service. And yet there is ‘nothing’ outside of Auckland, regardless.
          What country can do without proper ‘logistics’? Topography, in 2012, is hardly an excuse. But it can't be dealt with via nineteenth-century mores. What is New Zealand waiting for? The next load of impoverished German tourists in Juicy campervans to make the move … with sand shovels? Viable ports and their infrastructures have been stopped up timidity and a national obsession with creating new Auckland suburbs and a generation of entitled, insular incompetents who talk big but have no idea what they’re doing.”

Ouch! The scales are falling off somebody’s eyes! Stand back … ! 

2012 Wrap-Up: MAY

MAY 2012

An awesomely amazing time spent going down every metal roadin Northland, and surfing in desolate, awesomely beautiful spots like Henderson Bay and Whananaki South. I become obsessed with a book by Jane Mander called The Story of a New Zealand River, written in 1920. I picked it up at the Kauri Museum in Matakohe. It explains so much of the New Zealand psyche from the point of European settlement. I decide to make the search for Pukekaroro – the Kaipara settlement in which the book takes place – my mission in life. Based on the descriptions in the novel and a handy map of Northland, I make my attempt. It was fruitless, save for a guesstimation that a particular State Highway 1 bridge near the turnoff to Maungaturoto by the concrete factory may indeed span over the particular river I was looking for. I finally get some local input at the Maungaturoto Hotel. Walking into the beer-soaked tavern I ask a couple of old men where I can find Pukekaroro. They kind of look at me like I’ve lost my marbles. Anyway, a few minutes later I was on a metal road, high up on a ridge overlooking a large tidal river. 

The scene now at Pukekaroro. No kauris, just farmland.

As I took in the sweep of crests and valleys surrounding the river, I felt a real kinship with the women of the novel, and Jane Mander herself, who pulled no punches in getting to the dislocating core of what it must have been like for the first British settlers coming to this land. I could identify, in a way, with what they would have faced and how, coming in fits and starts, they would have dealt with each other’s varying degrees of familiarity with New Zealand and their methods of coping once on the ground. It was a kind of healing journey in which I began to understand just that little bit more my own New Zealand experience over the last 6 years. I also began to understand just how different New Zealanders are to Canadians. It marked the beginning of an interesting time for me, when I actually started to see New Zealand as it truly is, and not just as the beautiful, natural playground filled with affable, affluent people that I’d built it up to be.


I went on to Kaiwaka, once a major Kaipara logging town that also features in the book. These places are now among the struggling and declining. I left a part of myself in the Kaipara, and on a clear day I can see its western coast from Muriwai Beach, where I currently reside. Muriwai is not unlike the beach that features in Jane Campion’s The Piano, a film that rocked my world when it came out, and rumoured to be based on the Jane Mander novel.

The Piano
 It's not surprising that many of us hit a wrong key when we first encounter something new.
One of my favourite excerpts from the novel is a rather withering (and post-colonially ironic) cultural critique of Auckland via the alibi of the nineteenth-century boarding-house:

“Ah, a sort of fifth-rate Bloomsbury atmosphere, with everything, from your soul to your washing, under the eyes of the landlady. I know. Demoralizing! It would take the sense of adventure out of anybody. And I should imagine that a New Zealand boarding house without English service would be like a bed without a matress.” (Jane Mander, The Story of a New Zealand River, 52)

The experience of dealing with recruitment agents and others with respect to my employment prospects in New Zealand rather bore out the sentiment. At the end of the day one should keep in mind that there are many self-declared “gatekeepers” in New Zealand (aka Auckland), most of whom are less than one generation off the farm. Their attitude is incomprehensible if you come from, let’s say, an “older”, “more advanced” society, or can’t point to a single farm-labourer on any branch of your family tree until, say, prior to the Industrial Revolution.

Nevertheless, I did not understand my own snobbery or feelings of alienation in New Zealand until I read Jane Mander’s The Story of a New Zealand River. Still less did I undersand (barring some personality quirks) my New Zealand man one iota. Falling in love with a Kiwi in Toronto was the easy part. Arriving in New Zealand, all those years ago, decked out in my corsets, stays, and heavy floor-length velvet skirts with my trousseau of post-colonial standards and expectations was another.


From my personal journal:

“Moving to New Zealand from Canada represents ‘dropping out’, much like moving from Toronto to BC is ‘dropping out’. From Toronto one culturally ‘upgrades’ to New York or London. One does not ‘upgrade’ by moving to Auckland or NZ. One falls, ever so gently, down a colonial shaft, the final blow cushioned by perks like surfing, spectacular views, and a laid-back lifestyle. But one endures a ‘come down’ in every other respect. It is the reason why, in negotiating restaurant menus, in dying of cold and critters in damp, uninsulated and inadequately heated houses, in dealing with wrong-headed PR and business practices, in suffering the silly attitudes of the nouveau-nouveau riche in various rustic settings, one feels like a total alien, on the one hand insulted and on the other amused by people who would be absolutely eaten for lunch in New York or London … or even in Toronto. Of course I’m talking about a certain ‘class’ of NZer here. Canadians are rather more secure regarding their spot in the cultural food chain. Mostly. Unless you’re talking Yorkville, Rosedale, North Toronto, or the Beaches. But all the collective OEs in the world won’t change the tragic, antipodean poseur … permanently engaged in a fight for first-issue ‘overseas’ magazines and the latest ‘manchester’ that no longer comes from Manchester. As one acquaintance from a very, very old culture put it: a nation of adolescents with an adolescent identity crisis.” 

The true moral of the story, and the last words, are fittingly provided by Jane Mander:

"She had learned, perhaps too soon, that lives are not finished performances, or any series of rounded-off experiences, but a flow of endings dovetailing into fresh beginnings, of abortive experiments, of searches, of reachings out after alluring signs, of retreats, hurts, and disillusionments, the whole apparently bound by a cohesive thread, sometimes lost sight of, a thread that seems to lead somewhere, but about which no wise man will dogmatise." (Jane Mander, The Story of a New Zealand River, 477-8)

2012 WRAP-UP: JUNE


JUNE 2012
Insufferable newsmedia coverage of the Scott Guy murdertrial, insufferable newsmedia coverage of Kim Dot Com of Mega Upload fame. Insufferable newsmedia … full stop. Journalism in New Zealand is only slightly better than the average high-school PTA newsletter in BF nowhere Saskatchewan. Or maybe the yearbook editorials. Actually, that’s giving it too much credit, and not giving Saskatchewan its due. I blame the collusive practices of the major newsmedia groups, especially FAIRFAX, for relying on a limited puppy-mill loop of interns pumped out year after year by the “journalism” programme at AUT, with Massey filling in some of the lesser gaps with their minions. I know this because I investigated.
Kim Dot Com's larger-than-life "freedom fighter" avatar from Twitter.
 I find it hard to be at all upset about Kim Dot Com. That dude provided me with Mega Upload when I really needed it. His service set me on the road to emotional recovery at a really crappy time of my life when GMAIL and SKYPE just wouldn’t cut it, and I just HAD to get a half-hour long video message to a certain important someone. So what if dude is a misanthropic pirate scam artist? [No commas were used in the making of that sentence … on purpose.]

Flash forward to December 2012, and Kim Dot Com is the guest celebrity lighting the Christmas tree at Auckland’s Franklin Road festive lights celebration. I clapped. That’s right. I clapped like a duped seal. Even though his speech had the air of “wow, you really are a bunch of provincial morons and this is the most ridiculous display of Christmas I’ve ever seen in my life”. Or wait, was that me projecting what was going through my own head?

I also clapped when Ewen MacDonald was acquitted of the murder of Scott Guy at the beginning of July. Because if he had been found guilty on the basis of the prosecution’s case (built on a solid platform of total bullshit, public moral furor stirred up by the second-rate newsmedia, about 1000 witnesses whose testimony amounted to “yeah, the guy was a bit weird”, and a gigantic crockpot of village-style monkey-brain stew), I would have promptly moved back to Stephen Harper’s Canada. And that’s saying A LOT.

Thank God for small mercies that in New Zealand, when all is said and done, if justice doesn’t prevail over legalistic bungling, police incompetence, and a perversely unethical, collusive journalism corps, at least there’s no capital punishment. Because, when a crime is committed in New Zealand, basically if you’re the only one left standing, logic (the New Zealand Police, and the court of public opinion) dictates you must have done did it … somehow and anyhow, and it shall be proved. Not in the sense of hypotheses judicially “tested” via actually knowing the law and having evidence, but in the sense of a gut feeling being “stitched up”. Basically the Scott Guy murder trial was New Zealand’s “white Bronco” moment, but with no evidence that couldn't be called blatantly and patently circumstantial. Too bad about that diving boot, eh?
Ewen MacDonald:
Just another shining example of
 the duelling banjos saga that is family life on the farm in New Zealand.
Anyway, the acquittal of Ewen MacDonald left a fantastic opportunity for Woman’s Day to do a spread – that’s right, a spread – with Scott Guy’s widow, who of course is named Kylee, complete with lascivious, toothy smiles, fake eyelashes, and reclining on chaises in the “latest fashions”. I wondered, at the time, what the hell they would have done if she were just a run-of-the-mill, short-haired, sexually non-descript, no-nonsense, fat, frumpy, farmer’s wife of the most ubiquitous sort in New Zealand. The spread was a pretty obvious vehicle for spreading the message that MacDonald will not escape punishment for what he done did even if duly acquitted. It was also a deft re-working of what was obviously intended to be a victory-lap feature upon MacDonald’s certain conviction. Just like the article ran by Wellington’s Dominion Post on the day of the acquittal, which featured pseudo-child psychology analyses of MacDonald’s childhood fingerpaintings and pre-teen school poetry, all adding up to … you guessed it … GUILTY! Woman’s Day bookended the Scott Guy trial coverage by trotting out the estranged wife of the accused in a spread in the next issue. Soft lighting, glossy lipstick, manicured nails, etc.. Neither your typical NZ farmer’s wife. I think there may have been tooth-bleaching involved, and possibly a fake tan. Let me state for the record that being female and beautiful is definitely not a crime. But I think there's something rather dodgy about being turned into a glamour-puss murder trial mascot by the media as a consequence of your marital choices and involvement in a deeply flawed journo-legal process. 

But do not despair. I can assure you that the affair between Kanye West and Kim Kardashian, Kate Middleton-Windsor’s morning sickness, and the shocker divorce of TomKat were more comprehensively covered in New Zealand newsmedia than either Kim Dot Com or the Hot Wives of the Scott Guy Murder Trial. For which circumstances I have it on authority that Handel specifically wrote his “Hallelujah”. Because let’s face it. All the real news happens overseas!

Sunday, 23 December 2012

Christmas in New Zealand

Nothing says Christmas to a Canadian like Santa Claus and the reindeer taking to the sky over palm groves, festive beach parties, tank tops and jandals. Thank goodness for the universals of beer and wine, otherwise I’d have lost my bearings completely!


Imagine … it’s a couple of weeks before the big day and the days are getting longer, not shorter, the temperature is rising, fields are bursting with strawberries, asparagus and zucchinis, and sunblock is your best friend. Cozy evenings sweating in front of an open fire, candle-light, threat of snow and mulled wine are but a distant memory for me … and a good thing too. The only reason I’m not lying in a heap of homesickness is because the Kiwi Xmas is, well, totally opposite to Christmas in Southern Ontario.


The most amazing thing about the Holiday Season in NZ is the display put on by the Pohutukawa tree. These sharp, twisted, wizened old witches of trees burst forth with the softest, most exquisite red and yellow flowers around Christmas time. The world is on fire right now with the green and crimson glory known as the “New Zealand Christmas Tree”.

The Pohutukawa "New Zealand Christmas Tree" bloom
At Muriwai Beach
Merry Christmas!
The Kiwi Advent is like none other. Jesus who? It’s all about the countdown to summer holidays, soaking up the sun at the family bach, surfable surf on both coasts, and basically getting loaded on local beer and wine for the duration. That’s why in Aotearoa New Zealand there is a public holiday observed called “The Day After New Year’s Day” on 2 January. In other words, an entire nation of binge-drinkers gets that extra bit of insurance to sleep off “the day after the night before … before”. Imagine a symphony of livers regenerating all up and down the 40º South parallels. Besides, you need time to find your way home after waking up in a random sand dune on 90 Mile Beach, aye!

A unique Auckland holiday tradition is walking up and down Franklin Road in Ponsonby. Franklin Road provides that glimmer of Northern Hemisphere Christmas with a South Pacific twist. The NZ-style "villas" are festooned with Christmas lights and all kinds of stuff from the North like snowmen and reindeer and Santas, and even fake snow. So cute! Especially given that it's light until after 9pm. Save on the power bill, yo!
A  very Franklin Road Christmas
"I saw three ships come sailing in" ... to Waitemata Harbour
I don't know about you, but this makes me feel right at home!
I managed to find some real Kiwiana Christmas ornaments to get me into the spirit. I went to the dread Warehouse (NZ's Wal-Mart) where I got myself a SURFING SANTA SNOW-GLOBE, a SURFING SANTA STOCKING, a JANDAL and SANTA-HAT WEARING PUKEKO (NZ swamp-hen), and a totally PACIFIC SANTA complete with board-shorts and Hawai'ian shirt.
"Surf's up, bro!"
The kids are in for a big surprise this year!
Not an alternative to turkey.
Have jandals, will travel.

It's now Christmas Eve, babe, and I'm hoping I don't end up in the drunk tank. I'm off to a summer Christmas BBQ on "the Shore" (not the Jersey Shore, Auckland's North Shore). Later on I'll be at St. Patrick's Cathedral for the Midnight Mass, and I'm REALLY HOPING that that will get me into the Xmas spirit. Because you can take the girl out of Canada, but you sure as hell can't take the winter Christmas out of her. But this morning, as I was stirring the custard and baking sponge cakes in preparation for the WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE TRIFLE, made with the proper ingredients my Canadian family would expect, I was in a little sundress and a Santa hat singing Silver Bells by Anne Murray. That kinda did it for me ... a little. Pictures to follow in my post-Christmas 2012 wrap-up, coming soon!

Anyway, you can get the full impact of just how wacky and bizarre Christmas in New Zealand is for me by taking a "squizz" at this McDonald's Australia ad, which doubles as a McDonald's NZ ad. You know how every McDonald's in the Northern Hemisphere says, "NO SHIRT, NO SHOES, NO SERVICE"? Well that ain't the way it's done down here, winter or summer. Merry half-naked, sun-tanned, surf's up, BBQ drunkfest Antipodean Christmas, everyone! No scratchy woollen snowman sweaters live here!



(and yes, at the very end, the old lady says "Oh bugger!")






Friday, 19 October 2012

Revenge of the Natives

The following work of fiction was inspired by two things: the desperation one feels in one's bones after nearly a solid year of winter, and an identification with the narrative and analyses of the most excellent academic history ever written -- Professor Susan J. Matt's Homesickness: An American History (2011). 

I've basically been living out of a bag for the last 6 years, and in the last 20 years I have not spent a continuous year in one country. In fact, this 7 months spent in NZ is the longest I have spent at one go in one country in ... well yeah.

No matter how good you have it in an adopted country ... town ... city ... neighbourhood, homesickness can be a huge issue. Despite your bravery, courage, luxury, ease, and preparedness, you still may suffer from what a physician -- up until the mid-twentieth century -- would clinically describe as "nostalgia". Literally, "home pain".

The prevailing attitude towards homesickness and its effects is that one should "suck it up" and "get on with it". You big baby! North Americans, who have a huge, almost pathological ethos of "onwards and upwards", are the grand purveyors of this attitude. I was a grand purveyor of this attitude. After all, we have a 400-odd year history of extreme individual mobility. It's in our DNA.

But the reality is that this attitude has a history (a traceable and very recent history), and it's at total odds with how homesickness was viewed and handled in the past.

Which is why Professor Matt can say with confidence that even the new globalist is homesick.

When I lived in Amsterdam, I spent a good amount of time beating myself up for my "inability" and "failure" to adapt to my immediate environment, despite the fact that I tried everything possible to get down with the locals, to find enjoyment, to belong. I called upon all of my past travelling experience in order to make a go of it. But I wasn't travelling. The reason I moved to Amsterdam was for a job. Onwards and upwards! It was going to be the most awesome job ever! It turned out to be the worst situation I've ever encountered, and nothing I did could right it. On top of that, I moved -- only once by choice -- four times in the space of a year within the city. The weather was horrible, the landscape dismal, the culture unbearable, and intolerance and racism ruled. Even the food was terrible. The only expats who seemed to be loving it were in couples, owned their own property, had permanent jobs, and plenty of cash. If it weren't for the few friends that I worked my ass off to find, I would have shrivelled up and died. The sense of dislocation -- of impermanence -- of peregrinatory exile -- was unbearable. 

What I realise now, and realise even more strongly as a result of reading Professor Matt's book, is that, at the end of the day, sometimes you're just in the wrong environment. That's no crime. It doesn't make you immature or tied to your mother's apron strings. More importantly, YOU'RE NOT ALONE. And even if you choose to go live in your dream location ... it may not feel like home for a very, very long time .

And so, without further adieu, a fiction born of the emotional vortex that is HOME.

REVENGE OF THE NATIVES

 This slow, interminable Spring, which does not feel like Spring, but a slight confusion.
Of past times, and memories, and faraway places. Foreign dreams and nostalgia come to life suddenly because programmed to do so by their origin in distant climes. A beauty to which I am naturally attached: the diaphanous, tender, intricately veined leaves of the deciduous burst forth and begin their impercebtible maturation and hardening off. At home, so far away, they start such a brilliant green and dull with age and chlorophyll to their green green and seem, even until the very last, invincible. But they will be vanquished by dark and chill and a slowing in the sap. And then the great explosion of colour. I once heard that the autumn is when their true selves emerge: red, orange, yellow, brown, maroon. The blaze of the sumac. Fire in the forest. And when spring comes again, I revel in the liquid sweetness of the maple.
Here, against the sharp, concrete, evergreen natives, these foreign deciduous seem a yellowish, weak green, and hardly able to fend for themselves. The natives are hung with knives and spears and pikes. Sentinels armed to the teeth. Some are grey-green, some are black-green, some are olive-green. Some are thick and juicy. Some are razor-blades. They do not swish and whisper and stir, but thwack and rattle or stand immobile as great branches sway in the wind. They sift through the wind, magnifying its sound until the whole world seems to be ringing out with it, as though beaten by the wake of the four horsemen descending from heaven. They are the transmitters of whole raging seas, and their scaffolds. The waxy, stiff rigidity of the natives is set against the ephemeral, vivacious curves of the oak, the lattice-work of liquid amber, the whimsical flickering of the poplar, last messages from a world now unknown.
            It is another morning in the anitpodean spring. It is another morning of dampness and stubborn chill. Another morning of wind and cloud. Another morning that makes me crave the heat of my homeland, makes me nostalgic for Southern Ontario, makes me long for hot, humid summers and the delicious, distinct smells of four seasons. On this morning I would chop down every pohutukawa tree in sight. I would build a bridge to home and I would see again the steam of August heat rising up from rows of corn. I would see the baking dust of a July field and swollen fruits and vegetables rioting in the sandy soil. I would have the deep, wet whirring and buzzing of the riverbanks, marshes, and meadows under a full, close, and pregnant sun. I would put on the hot womb of this world like a second skin and dive into heat shimmers, and eat of the humid air, and commiserate with the plaintive cry of the tree toad as I oozed away into the thickness of heat.
            I am so nostalgic—in my very bones—for the Southern Ontario spring and summer, my seasons, my landscape, my environment, that I would chop down every rimu in sight and build a canoe. I would race it northernward to home, and I would not sacrifice the call of the robin in May, nor the heat of June at 6am, the coating of sweat, the indolence of humidity, and the rolling of the summer storms towards their clamour in valleys of fire. As the forests would droop and sway, I, and all other mammals, would trust in their efforts to survive. Close to the floor, the bed of pine needles, the swatting of blackflies and mosquitoes. In the clearing, the horsefly in the middle of my forehead, death to the horsefly as I dive into the lake, death to the horsefly again as he makes his endless return to the middle of my forehead, I dive and I dive and the cool, freshwater is a jewel of suspension fizzing in the melting heat. Hear the lapping at the shore, a wayward leaf flutters and lands on the surface, the waterspiders skid around it, the tigerlily reaches skyward, the willow dips, the rocks hiss and crack, my skins still smells of dust and sweat, and now maybe a little like fish, loons, ducks, turtles, frogs, otters, and beavers.
            Here: damp. Chill. Wind. Endless wind. Ever-present clouds at low ceiling. Change and change again while yet the natives ceaselessly carry on. A challenge, perhaps. The short and sharp thwacking of native leaves and fronds in the unending wind. Like daggers to the soul. My head on a pike. Short and sharp the day. Here be cold and damp for me to rest my nostalgic misery on. The hands that never warm up, the house that never heats up, the only relief physical labour out-of-doors to keep the body from seizing up and declaring “it” all over. A temperate maritime prison. This spring.
            Even in the summer, it is never too hot here. Never hot enough at night to wear your t-shirt and nothing else. Never hot enough to make you sweat in your strappy dress on the patio of a good restaurant at 11pm. Here, in the summer, we open up all the windows and doors with no screens so that we are almost living under a corrugated iron tarp. The outside comes in. It is wonderful. But then, at night, the windows and doors are all shut up against mosquitoes, there is no air at all, everyone complains, “it’s too hot to sleep”. Were we to have screens here we would be burrowed under blankets against the breeze and the damp. They do not know why we have screens in Southern Ontario. They do not know the true meaning of “too hot to sleep”.
            Oh that my bones could feel 30 degrees celsius again, trying to sleep. Windows open, outside air stagnant, fans on, icecubes, wet cloth over my face, my chest, my shoulders, flipping my pillow, sleeping on top of the sheets in a sundress, fabric placed between my thighs to stop them sticking together, it is so hot I have disintegrated, God could take me now because I am already in hell and then I realise, “this too shall pass”, and I fall into a deep sweaty sleep to be awakened by the first bird at 4:30am. “Oh shut up, bird! I will kill you!” And then the orb of dawn, the lid of the rice-cooker is orange and colours the whole world orange. I am on the lookout for the storm: “Red sky in morning, sailors take warning”. The lid of the rice-cooker takes in the City of Toronto and all its suburbs, the City of Pickering and all of Oshawa, the entirety of Lake Ontario and the Thousand Islands and all the way to Quebec, all the bullrushes, the furry mammals, the dew drippping blades of grass and exhausted flowers. The lid of the rice-cooker is pressed down and by 6am the low spreading glow is over all. It is not short, sharp, and stabbing. It is not the clear, clean blade of white laser like the New Zealand sun. It is a growing, golden stain, an arced heat-lamp, the lid of the rice-cooker is illuminated and glowing and it pulls me out of bed into desperate shade where even still it is 30 degrees celsius and I am puffing up and taking on water and sweating, a grain of rice fattened in the sun who will never eat but iceberg lettuce again. I can’t even breathe.
            But there—under that maple tree, its delicate, soft, green leaves tinkling in the light, dappling me as the hands of Manet with yellow and less yellow and a dollop of orange, a circle of protection, there I have learned to extract cool from even the slightest puff of breeze. There I can ooze away with dignity, believing I am loved and cooled, and not stabbed and throttled by pohutukawa and palm trees and laser beams. Selfish, scraggy pohutukawa, surviving with no care for me, surviving in the battering wind, the salt spray, the army of sun. The army of sun which marches into the very marrow of my bones and sets off nuclear bombs. It fries my skin from the inside out, meanwhile the wind is a cruel conspirator who hides the bomb attack in layers of annoying goosebumps all over my body. Shivering and burning up at the same time. It’s like having a fever.
            Pohutukawa does not care. He laughs in his bony, twisted, unrelenting way. He promises shade that proves to be conniving and rootless. He presents a maze of patches on the ground that leave me otherwise exposed to the elements. He chafes me and scratches me with the points of his hideous, taunting leaves. Pohutukawa says, “Ha ha! I will survive!”, while the white glare of the New Zealand sun bounces off the shiny leaves of his friends and blinds me silly.
            I trip. I fall. Over a cliff, into the booming white water below. I am raked over a rocky reef, shipwrecked, sodden in the salty sea, swirling and tumbling and battered around by wave after wave. I come up for air, bloody, disorentated, gasping. I raise up my arms. “Help!” I yell helplessly into the wind. It smacks me right in the face.
Pohutukawa, clinging to the edge of this precipice for 200 years, looks down and laughs heartily at me. He says, “Told you so!”



Saturday, 1 September 2012

L.L.W.C. Signage ... The Real Kiwiana Part 2

Welcome to another edition of The Real Kiwiana (RK). Today's topic is ... SIGNAGE!

These pix have been gathered by me over my travels in the North Island over the past 6 months. Did you know there are entire departments, institutes, and work-groups -- even university courses -- devoted to the study and making of superior, transparent, culturally transcendent signage? Why? Because it is a crucial part of communication. Gestural, verbal, visual, instantaneous. Holonic. Or whatever. Anyway, these signs are the best postcards of New Zealand going, and may serve as fantastic prototypes for people interested in having a career in signage and/or communication. These struck my fancy and I thought they deserved some broadcasting.

Exhibit 1: Toilet smear campaign


The toilet thief caper: Public Toilets, Colville, Coromandel Peninsula


Exhibit 2: Tunnel directions for Noah's Ark through Middle Earth

Inexplicable infrastructural information, Wellington tunnel.


Exhibit 3: Kinipela's paternal legacy 

Daddy Love/Love Daddy Town, Coromandel Peninsula


Exhibit 4: Beware the Flightless Chicken

Somewhere in Northland ...


Exhibit 5: Taihape boasts a corrugated iron gumboot. Oakune has a giant carrot. Taumaranui is the place you go to bottom out. Dargaville is NZ's "Kumara Capital". Get out your peelers!


Exhibit 6: Once I was asked "What if it [life, love, New Zealand] goes bad?". Well if I end up in Te Kuiti, "Shearing Capital of the World", you'll know!

With apologies to the good people of Te Kuiti.
Don't worry, I'm embarrassed for you.


Exhibit 7: One of the best uses of cut-away lettering and iron ever!

"Fire and the Land" display on a hill near Cape Reinga, Northland.
Yes, that is real land as captured through the sign. Letters as frames for the environment.


Exhibit 8: Cape Reinga, the Middle of Everywhere

Situation critical: Vancouver is double the distance from NZ to Antarctica. Eek!


Exhibits 9a, b, and c: So, this probably is not the road to the fabled "The Bluff" surf spot on 90 Mile Beach. Just a deserted place with no mobile reception where I have a high likelihood of getting killed. Nice.



Northland forestry road, Te Kao. I paid a "gold coin" to get into this mess! REFUND!
Theoretically true.
 If I had persisted beyond the killer wild horses and stuff, I would have reached the Tasman.


Exhibit 10: Scottish Inventory and The Floating Kiwi Apostrophe

Goes well with the fish n' chip's, and the womens's wear.


Exhibit 11: NO SMELLY FOOD! WE OWN THIS KITCHEN!

Fish: The Other Smelly Food.


Exhibit 12: Mantrol(l): Kawakawa, Northland.

I assume this billboard refers to driving speed.
But it could refer to something else.
Like thinking of old nuns or your mother at the crucial moment.
Know what I mean?


Exhibit 13: "Homekill Month". WTF?! I left town as quickly as I could!

Kawakawa, Northland.


Exhibit 14: Newfies of the South

Towai Hotel, Towai, Northland.


Exhibit 15: Issues in Dargaville



Exhibit 16: No Mucking Around!

No shirt no shoes: service. Dirty gumboots: no service. Towai, Northland.


Exhibit 17: Sign of a great surf day!

Kinipela, Somewhere on the Tutukaka Coast.


Social Signs: A Parting Note Regarding Culture and Communication in Select Nations of the Former Commonwealth 

You know how when Canadians say things like, "we should get together sometime", it's really a hugely elaborate social ritual that (among Canadians) really means, "I'd like the opportunity to perhaps make contact with you again to see if, in fact, you are the kind of person I would theoretically like to invite into my house to spend more time with me in my private space and I will judge by your response to this probe just how much you actually may or may not be potentially compatible with me and my private space known as my home and after we have gone through this ritual for the next five meetings in public spaces, I will know if, indeed, you should come to my house for further social contact and at that point I will be well satisfied that we are possibly more than passing acquaintances and even maybe friends"? Well, when Kiwis say, "drop in for a coffee sometime" to a complete stranger, it's code for: "drop in for a coffee sometime". Nuff said.